Slow travel, mostly by train

Lisbon to Porto on the regional line instead of the Alfa Pendular

Two extra hours, a third of the price, and a lunch stop in Coimbra that ended up being the best part of the week.

Portugal · rail

Walking the Rheinsteig: stage 3 to 5 with a daypack

Luggage transfer between guesthouses, where the trail markings disappear, and which vineyard slopes are worth the climb.

Germany · hiking

The overnight train from Vienna to Venice, cabin by cabin

Seat, couchette or sleeper: what you get, what it costs when booked a month ahead, and whether you will actually sleep.

Austria · Italy · night train

Three days in Ghent without a plan

Canals, a very old castle in the middle of town, and why the quiet side streets beat the main square.

Belgium · city